{"id":1013,"date":"2019-02-06T18:21:29","date_gmt":"2019-02-06T17:21:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/rumme.cz\/?p=1013"},"modified":"2019-02-06T18:21:29","modified_gmt":"2019-02-06T17:21:29","slug":"luca-gargano-jeden-z-nejvetsich-rumovych-odborniku","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rumme.cz\/en\/luca-gargano-jeden-z-nejvetsich-rumovych-odborniku\/","title":{"rendered":"Jeden z nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch rumov\u00fdch odborn\u00edk\u016f byl v \u010cR"},"content":{"rendered":"

Aneb Luca Gargano v Praze<\/h2>\n

Byl to kr\u00e1sn\u00fd zimn\u00ed den. Obloha naprosto modr\u00e1, slunce na „dotek“ h\u0159\u00e1lo, ikdy\u017e se teplota pohybovala kolem bodu mrazu. A v tom se ocitnete uprost\u0159ed star\u00e9ho opr\u00fdskan\u00e9ho baz\u00e9nu, obklopeni rumov\u00fdmi nad\u0161enci, degustujete jamajsk\u00fd rum a vn\u00edm\u00e1te energii, kterou na dno baz\u00e9nu vnesl italsk\u00fd milovn\u00edk rumu Luca Gargano. Teplota povysko\u010dila daleko nad bod mrazu.<\/p>\n

\"Luca

Baz\u00e9n – UPB vybralo zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 m\u00edsto pro degustaci.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Luca Gargano<\/h3>\n

Vlastn\u00ed vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed za\u010dal stru\u010dnou histori\u00ed, jak se k rum\u016fm dostal. Karibik nav\u0161t\u00edvil poprv\u00e9 v roce 1975. Prvn\u00ed zna\u010dkou, se kterou spolupracoval byl Saint James z Martiniku. Mimo jin\u00e9 zm\u00ednil p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh o tom, jak motivoval sv\u00e9 obchodn\u00ed z\u00e1stupce k tomu, aby prodali v\u00edce t\u00e9to zna\u010dky v It\u00e1lii. V tehdej\u0161\u00ed dob\u011b jezdili\u00a0 nej\u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u011bj\u0161\u00ed obchodn\u00ed z\u00e1stupci\u00a0 na „\u0161kolen\u00ed“ za odm\u011bnu do Francie, aby zkoumali ko\u0148ak nebo \u0161ampa\u0148sk\u00e9. A pokud se n\u011bkomu z nich hodn\u011b da\u0159ilo prod\u00e1vat, let\u011bli do Skotska ochutn\u00e1vat m\u00edstn\u00ed whisky. V\u00fdlet do Karibiku byl v t\u00e9 dob\u011b nep\u0159edstavitelnou odm\u011bnou, co\u017e Luca Gargano pou\u017eil jako motivaci ke zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00ed prodej\u016f. Motivace fungovala a jeho t\u00fdmu se povedlo zdvojn\u00e1sobit p\u0159\u00edm\u00fd prodej Saint James.<\/p>\n

Luca Gargano cestoval po cel\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b a postupn\u011b prozkoum\u00e1val r\u016fzn\u00e9 destilerie. Ze zku\u0161enost\u00ed, kter\u00e9 takto sb\u00edral, n\u00e1sledn\u011b mnoh\u00e9 \u010derpal. Vyb\u00edral kvalitn\u00ed rumy, kter\u00e9 objevil a importoval je do It\u00e1lie. V t\u00e9 dob\u011b tam byl dov\u00e1\u017een pouze jeden z jamajsk\u00fdch z\u00e1stupc\u016f rumu a to Appleton Estate. O jeho import se starala firma bl\u00edzk\u00fdch p\u0159\u00e1tel. Proto Luca Gargano neuva\u017eoval o dov\u00e1\u017een\u00ed jin\u00e9ho jamask\u00e9ho rumu, necht\u011bl t\u00edm vytvo\u0159it konkurenci sv\u00fdm p\u0159\u00e1tel\u016fm.
\nS\u00e1m Luca se pova\u017euje za rumov\u00e9ho „skauta“ (ve sportovn\u00ed terminologii). Vyhled\u00e1v\u00e1 rumy, kter\u00e9 maj\u00ed potenci\u00e1l st\u00e1t se vyj\u00edme\u010dn\u00fdmi. A jeden z t\u011bchto rum\u016f n\u00e1m p\u0159ijel p\u0159edstavit – jamajsk\u00fd Hampden Estate.<\/p>\n

Hampden Estate<\/h3>\n

Z\u00e1klady destilerie byly polo\u017eeny ji\u017e v roce 1753 na \u00fazem\u00ed Trelawny (ve stejn\u00e9 oblasti je situov\u00e1na dal\u0161\u00ed jamajsk\u00e1 destilerie Long Pond). Tedy zhruba sto let potom, co se v Karibiku roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ilo um\u011bn\u00ed destilace. Hampden Estate popisuje jako endemickou destilerii.\u00a0 Z ji\u017en\u00ed\u00a0 strany je obklopena „Cockpit country“<\/a>, hory kter\u00e9 jsou pops\u00e1ny jako: „ostrov na ostrov\u011b“. Tropick\u00fd les v sob\u011b ukr\u00fdv\u00e1 spoustu endemick\u00fdch rostlin a \u017eivo\u010dich\u016f (posledn\u00ed \u017eij\u00edc\u00ed krokod\u00fdli na Jamajce, p\u016fvodn\u00ed druhy ptactva, \u017eluto-ocas\u00ed mot\u00fdl).\u00a0 Nejen proto onen p\u0159\u00edvlastek endemick\u00e1 pal\u00edrna.<\/p>\n

Na za\u010d\u00e1tku 19. stolet\u00ed zde bylo v oblasti v\u00edce ne\u017e stovka mal\u00fdch t\u0159tinov\u00fdch plant\u00e1\u017e\u00ed s jejich vlastn\u00edmi destileriemi. Hampden Estate v\u0161ak vyvinula unik\u00e1tn\u00ed zp\u016fsob v\u00fdroby rum\u016f s extr\u00e9mn\u00edm obsahem ester\u016f. Metoda byla tak zaj\u00edmav\u00e1, \u017ee ji lok\u00e1ln\u00ed producenti postupn\u011b p\u0159evzali za svou. Rumy vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00e9 touto metodou byly tak specifick\u00fd, \u017ee se v 19. a 20. stolet\u00ed rumy z Jamajky d\u011blily na podoblast „Jamaica Trelawny rums“ a zbytek naz\u00fdvan\u00fd jen „Jamaica rums“.<\/p>\n

Speci\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00fdroba<\/h5>\n

Luca n\u00e1m vysv\u011btlil, \u017ee rum je\u00a0 vyr\u00e1b\u011bn podobnou metodou, jak\u00e1 se pou\u017e\u00edvala, kdy\u017e p\u0159ed 260 lety za\u010d\u00ednali.<\/p>\n

Svou specifickou chu\u0165 a v\u016fni rum z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 jako d\u016fsledek speci\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00fdroboy. Z t\u0159tinov\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy se pomoc\u00ed separ\u00e1tn\u00edho kva\u0161en\u00ed a oxidace vytvo\u0159\u00ed nejprve ocet. Ten je n\u00e1sledn\u011b p\u0159id\u00e1van\u00fd do alkoholov\u00e9ho kvasu melasy. T\u00edm se zv\u00fd\u0161\u00ed kyselost kvasu, na kterou je nav\u00e1z\u00e1na produkce ester\u016f. Ty jsou tvo\u0159eny\u00a0 reakc\u00ed ethanolu a pr\u00e1v\u011b dodan\u00fdch kyselin v podob\u011b octu. Luca ozna\u010dil estery jako parf\u00e9my rumu.<\/p>\n

\"Hampden

Ananas je definitivn\u011b „parf\u00e9mem“ HAMPDEN over-proof rum 60% ABV<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

\u00a05 pil\u00ed\u0159\u016f \u00fasp\u011bchu destilerie HAMPDEN<\/h3>\n
Voda p\u0159\u00edmo z pramene<\/strong><\/em><\/h6>\n

Voda se nach\u00e1z\u00ed se 5 km od samotn\u00e9 destilerie. Pokus s pou\u017eit\u00edm vody z m\u011bstsk\u00e9ho zdroje uk\u00e1zal, jak je druh pou\u017eit\u00e9 vody z\u00e1sadn\u00ed p\u0159i tvorb\u011b terroir* rumu. M\u011btsk\u00e1 voda zcela zm\u011bnila charakter destil\u00e1tu a proto ji nad\u00e1le nepou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed.<\/p>\n

*terroir – kompletn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed podm\u00ednky dan\u00e9 oblasti, kter\u00e9 utv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed v\u00fdslednou chu\u0165 a aroma rumu.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Spont\u00e1nn\u00ed kva\u0161en\u00ed\u00a0<\/em>
\n<\/strong>
\nLuca vyzdvihl d\u016fle\u017eitost kvasinek a pouk\u00e1zal na to, \u017ee rumov\u00fd v\u00fdrobci postupn\u011b p\u0159e\u0161li k pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed pr\u016fmyslov\u00fdch laboratorn\u00edch kvasinek, kter\u00e9 jsou si v\u0161echny podobn\u00e9. A stejn\u011b jako jsou si podobn\u00e9 kvasinky, jsou si charakterov\u011b podobn\u00e9 i v\u00fdsledn\u00e9 destil\u00e1ty z r\u016fzn\u00fdch pal\u00edren. Tento typ pr\u016fmyslov\u011b vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00fdch rum\u016f z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 sv\u00e9 chut\u011b ulo\u017een\u00edm do sud\u016f nebo h\u016f\u0159e chemick\u00fdm „vylep\u0161en\u00edm“.\u00a0 Oproti tomu Hampden nech\u00e1v\u00e1 kva\u0161en\u00ed zcela na p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b. Prostory, kde jsou fermenta\u010dn\u00ed tanky ulo\u017eeny, nejsou \u010di\u0161t\u011bny a tak se nen\u00ed \u010demu divit, \u017ee kvasink\u00e1m se tady v\u00fdborn\u011b da\u0159\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Samotn\u00e9 kvasinky Luca p\u0159ipodobnil ke „spermi\u00edm“ ovoce \u010di zeleniny, ze kter\u00e9ho poch\u00e1z\u00ed. Nesou v sob\u011b ukryt\u00e9 DNA p\u016fvodn\u00edho materi\u00e1lu. Rumy Hampden proch\u00e1z\u00ed dlouhou fermentac\u00ed trvaj\u00edc\u00ed 10 dn\u016f (pozn. n\u011bkter\u00e9 destilerie nech\u00e1vaj\u00ed rumy kvasit jen 12 hodin). Jeliko\u017e fermentace a bakteri\u00e1ln\u00edm mno\u017een\u00ed, kter\u00e9 Hampden aplikuje, jsou velice speci\u00e1ln\u00ed a zaj\u00edmav\u00e9, Luca o nich hovo\u0159il d\u00e9le. Pop\u00ed\u0161eme si tyto aspekty bl\u00ed\u017ee\u00a0 v samostatn\u00e9m \u010dl\u00e1nku.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Luca mluv\u00ed o spont\u00e1nn\u00edm kva\u0161en\u00ed<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Pot still (batch) destilace\u00a0<\/em>
\n<\/strong><\/h6>\n

Na V\u00fdrobu rum\u016f Hampden je pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1na jen kotl\u00edkov\u00e1 destilace. Celkov\u011b zde maj\u00ed 4 kotle r\u016fzn\u00fdch v\u00fdrobc\u016f.\u00a0 Luca v t\u00e9to souvislosti mluvil o tom, \u017ee je velk\u00fd zmatek v rumov\u00e9m t\u0159\u00edd\u011bn\u00ed. Ka\u017ed\u00fd kdo pije skotskou whisky zn\u00e1 rozd\u00edl mezi single malt a blended whisky a v\u00ed, \u017ee jsou rozd\u00edln\u011b vyroben\u00e9, kde\u017eto u rumu lid\u00e9 v\u011bd\u00ed jen to, \u017ee agricole rhumy jsou odli\u0161n\u00e9. U zna\u010den\u00ed produktu nen\u00ed rozli\u0161ov\u00e1no mezi kotl\u00edkovou a kolonovou destilac\u00ed, produkt v\u017edy nese stejn\u00fd n\u00e1zev – rum, a\u010dkoli pou\u017eit\u00e1 destilace se z\u00e1sadn\u011b prom\u00edt\u00e1 do charakteru n\u00e1poje.<\/p>\n

P\u0159i kolonov\u00e9 destilaci se v\u00fdrobci sna\u017e\u00ed vyt\u011b\u017eit co nejv\u00edce alkoholu na \u00fakor chuti, v\u016fn\u011b. Tento destil\u00e1t je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 neutr\u00e1ln\u00ed a v\u0161echnu chu\u0165 z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 a\u017e ze sud\u016f, ve kter\u00fdch zraje. Opakem je kotl\u00edkov\u00e1 destilace, kde je \u00fa\u010delem master distillera zachovat co nejv\u00edce chut\u00ed a v\u016fn\u00ed p\u016fvodn\u00ed suroviny. Metodu destilace v Hampden p\u0159irovnal k v\u00fdrob\u011b mezcalu, ko\u0148aku, calvados \u010di single malt. Odtud poch\u00e1z\u00ed n\u00e1zev „Pure single rum“ – rum vydestilovan\u00fd jen v kotl\u00edch v jedn\u00e9 destilerii.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Hampden pot stills<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

100%<\/strong>\u00a0 zr\u00e1n\u00ed v tropick\u00e9m Karibiku<\/strong><\/em><\/h6>\n

Lokalita tvo\u0159\u00ed kus charisma rumu. Kdy\u017e nech\u00e1te zr\u00e1t \u0161ampa\u0148sk\u00e9 mimo sv\u016fj francouzsk\u00fd terroir a p\u0159evezli byste jej nap\u0159\u00edklad do It\u00e1lie,\u00a0 ji\u017e se nem\u016f\u017ee pova\u017eovat za \u0161ampa\u0148sk\u00e9. U rum\u016f m\u00e1 m\u00edsto zr\u00e1n\u00ed podstatn\u00fd vliv na kone\u010dn\u00fd produkt. Luca n\u00e1s informoval, \u017ee v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b tropick\u00e9ho zr\u00e1n\u00ed doch\u00e1z\u00ed a\u017e 10% ro\u010dn\u00edho v\u00fdparu, zat\u00edmco v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b kontinent\u00e1ln\u00edho evropsk\u00e9ho p\u0159edstavuje ro\u010dn\u00ed v\u00fdpar jenom asi 1%. Luca porovnal\u00a0 desetilet\u00fd rum st\u00e1\u0159en\u00fd v Karibiku a ten stejn\u00fd desetilet\u00fd rum st\u00e1\u0159en\u00fd v Praze. Karibsk\u00fd bude m\u00edt 3x v\u00edce kongener\u016f (\u010d\u00e1stice, kter\u00e9 utv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed chu\u0165 a aroma destil\u00e1tu). Oba by chutnaly naprosto odli\u0161n\u011b.<\/p>\n

\"\"

„7 let zr\u00e1n\u00ed na Jamajce je zhruba jako 25 let v Evrop\u011b.“<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Nulov\u00fd p\u0159\u00eddavek cukru a barviv<\/strong><\/em><\/h6>\n

Pro zasv\u011bcen\u00e9 milovn\u00edky rumu, kte\u0159\u00ed znaj\u00ed v\u00fdrobu rumu, Luca zopakoval starou pravdu: „P\u0159i v\u00fdrob\u011b rumu je v\u0161echen cukr p\u0159em\u011bn\u011bn do formy alkoholu a to p\u0159i fermentaci, zbytkov\u00fd neprokva\u0161en\u00fd cukr je odd\u011blen p\u0159i destilaci. V\u00fdsledkem je voda, alkohol a kongenery.“ Co\u017e jsme v chuti rumu samoz\u0159ejm\u011b mohli poznat – \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd cukr, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed. Co pro mne naopak p\u0159ekvapen\u00edm bylo, je fakt, \u017ee fin\u00e1ln\u00ed produkt nedobarvuj\u00ed potravin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdm karamelem. Kone\u010dn\u011b se n\u011bkdo neboj\u00ed sv\u016fj rum prod\u00e1vat takov\u00fd jak\u00fd je!<\/p>\n

<\/h5>\n

Pyramida rum\u016f<\/h3>\n
\"\"

Posledn\u00edm zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed bylo se\u0159azen\u00ed rum\u016f podle jejich metody v\u00fdroby do ucelen\u00e9 pyramidy<\/em>.<\/p><\/div>\n

Ve\u00a0spodn\u00ed<\/strong> \u010derven\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti jsou tis\u00edce rum\u016f, nemaj\u00ed ur\u010den p\u016fvod v\u00fdroby (destilerii).\u00a0 V dal\u0161\u00edm \u0159\u00e1dku jsou zaznamen\u00e1ny rumy (+100), kter\u00e9 jsou vyrobeny p\u0159\u00edmo v n\u011bkter\u00e9 z destileri\u00ed. Uprost\u0159ed pyramidy jsou zna\u010dky rum\u016f, jen\u017e maj\u00ed destila\u010dn\u00ed kotl\u00edky i kolony. Na dal\u0161\u00edm \u0159\u00e1dku jsou ji\u017e vyselektov\u00e1ny rumy vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00e9 pouze kotl\u00edkovou destilac\u00ed. Druh\u00fd nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed \u0159\u00e1dek obsahuje jen 4 v\u00fdrobce rum\u016f a ty ke v\u0161em krit\u00e9ri\u00edm je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159id\u00e1vaj\u00ed spont\u00e1nn\u00ed fermentaci. Nejv\u00fd\u0161e v pyramid\u011b stoj\u00ed rumy, kter\u00e9 je\u0161t\u011b nav\u00edc pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed pramenitou vodu – Hampden Estate a River Antoine (Grenada).<\/p>\n

\"\"

Velk\u00e1 \u010dest a klobouk dol\u016f (nebo snad \u010depici?)<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Luca \u010dasto nos\u00ed tento typ tri\u010dka s vlastn\u00edm ozna\u010den\u00edm „Triple A“, kter\u00e9 zalo\u017eili v roce 2003 pro italsk\u00e9 vina\u0159e. Dnes se s n\u00edm m\u016f\u017eeme setkat i u Clairin\u016f<\/a><\/strong>.\u00a0 Sna\u017e\u00ed se vyzdvihnout producenty, kte\u0159\u00ed k v\u00fdrob\u011b v\u00edn \u010di destil\u00e1t\u016f pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed p\u016fvodn\u00ed zem\u011bd\u011blsk\u00e9 techniky, um\u011bn\u00ed sv\u00e9ho oboru a star\u00e9 metody v\u00fdroby. Bojuje\u00a0 proti standartizovan\u00fdm velkoproducent\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed postr\u00e1daj\u00ed „terroir“.<\/p>\n

Na z\u00e1v\u011br mus\u00edm pod\u011bkovat z\u00e1stupc\u016fm firmy UPB- Ultra Premium Brands<\/a><\/strong>, za to \u017ee dok\u00e1zali tuto rumovou ikonu do \u010cR dostat. A takt\u00e9\u017e Cubana Baru<\/a><\/strong>, kter\u00fd mi umo\u017enil b\u00fdt jejich z\u00e1stupcem na t\u00e9to degustaci. D\u011bkuji !!!
\nZa korekci textu d\u011bkuji Tama\u0159e Sk\u0159\u00ed\u0161ovsk\u00e9 a Janu Pernicovi.<\/p>\n

<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Aneb Luca Gargano v Praze Byl to kr\u00e1sn\u00fd zimn\u00ed den. Obloha naprosto modr\u00e1, slunce na „dotek“ h\u0159\u00e1lo, ikdy\u017e se teplota pohybovala kolem bodu mrazu. A v tom se ocitnete uprost\u0159ed star\u00e9ho opr\u00fdskan\u00e9ho baz\u00e9nu, obklopeni rumov\u00fdmi nad\u0161enci, degustujete jamajsk\u00fd rum a vn\u00edm\u00e1te energii, kterou na dno baz\u00e9nu vnesl italsk\u00fd milovn\u00edk rumu Luca Gargano. Teplota povysko\u010dila daleko […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":1015,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_breakdance_hide_in_design_set":false,"_breakdance_tags":"","iawp_total_views":10,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[34,41,42,43],"class_list":["post-1013","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-degustace-rumu","tag-hampden-estate","tag-luca-gargano","tag-rumme"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nJeden z nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch rumov\u00fdch odborn\u00edk\u016f byl v \u010cR | RumMe.cz<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Luca Gargano osobn\u011b v Praze p\u0159edstavil nov\u00e9 z\u00e1stupce jamajsk\u00e9 destilerie Hampden Estate. 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